I haven't been asking the same question over and over again. While stationary shove into 4th and try pull off. It wouldn't be a huge deal but starting in first gear is so jerky now, and I feel like it's either really jerky and I give it too much gas or I just stall. Meh. Last time I drove one it was a courtesy car and the bite point was so high it reminded me of the BSM car I learned in Wasn't sure if that was natural or whether previous drivers had just thrashed the poor thing! However prior to starting the work it was evident that the clutch bite point was very high, almost at he end of the pedal travel. I explained the tech's reasoning for his statements because that's another discussion in of itself. So my previous clutch started slipping pretty bad out of nowhere. While it's true you need to give the clutch a few days to start settling in, and ~ 500 miles to completely break in the clutch, your clutch set point is far too high. The car has about 10k miles on it. Is it just me or your clutch pedal is way too high too? I haven't worked on a yaris so I can't give you any tips unique to that car! They are in development of a hydraulic clutch conversion for the Fox bodies and the SN95 cars. Since the friction material on the clutch plate will wear down over time, the hydraulic clutch will automatically adjust to compensate for this loss. I'd learned to drive and had driven machines with a new clutch that grabbed at the last inch of travel. Having slackened pedal pivot bolt 1.Slacken the nut & bolt securing the pedal stop-plate to the pedal bracket 2 Using a lever raise the stop plate fully so that there is a considerable amount of free play at the pedal 3 Lower the stop-plate until there is between 1.0 & 3.0 mm free play at the pedal. When I said what the tech told me vs. what other people online have told me, I wasnt saying anyone else was wrong. It still isn't better. The shop advised me not to adjust it and to give it a few days to get used to. If it comes out, it should reduce pedal effort and possibly give better clutch pedal placement. Ok, I'll bite, how the **** does a clutch fail and send metal shavings out the HVAC vents! Is this normal? I just replaced the clutch and master cylinder. I personally prefer mine to disengage/engage fairly high in the range of the clutch pedal too (high relative to all the way down). Have you noticed that it tends to cause the point of engagement to change frequently after doing so? I have a '98 Rodeo and the clutch catches extremely high up the pedal. They replaced the clutch and flywheel and now the engagement point is crazy high. Clutch pedal adjustment should be checked after a new clutch has been installed. Driving is now very difficult. Too much free pedal play isn’t good, either, because too much pedal travel is used up doing nothing: There’s not enough movement left at the bottom of its travel to compress the clutch springs and allow the engine flywheel and the clutch disk to separate. As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. The clutch does not slip at all and the car runs great. (I think that made sense). When I step on it, the first 2-3 inches are very soft, like nothing is happening, no spring engaging or anything. Discussion Starter • #1 • Sep 17, 2014 (Edited) I am the original owner of a 2000 F350 SD 4x4, 7.3L, 6 spd manual tranny. If it isn't slipping, then I … 11wrx hatch. A normal clutch pedal depression will feel nice and smooth. I drove friend's GTI and his clutch was grabbing much lower, it made shifting much easier compared to my Z06 On pedal depression the inverse is true. It is very simple: The rod pushes on a steel lever that in turn pushes in the pressure plate to release the clutch disc. I can't figure out why the clutch pedal in my mustang is too high. As the coupe is back from paint and the roads are better, I drove her. When you step on the clutch pedal with your foot, there should not be too much resistance. Shavings. Once the proper distance is set, tighten the lock nut. i have a 1963 nova and brake pedal too high, i want to kinda lower it down, please help, i got to lift up my leg just to brake Now, I've owned a few manual transmission cars in the past (all with clutch cables, not hydraulic) and the pedals were all lighter than my WRX, and this is including a 5.0 Mustang with a clutch disc the size of a small pizza! Hi all, I have a July 08 R56 Mini Cooper S. Manual with LSD. I'm not sure if I should just give it time or not. 4 Posts . I was having an e-mail exchange yesterday with a company called Mad Hatter Racing out in Idaho. Hi All My car is almost back on the road after a bit of TLC. IIRC some Aygos had a too-small clutch which wore out too quickly. Anyone else with an 08/09 think the pedal effort is too high? my one was too high when I got it of my sister and was horrid to drive at 110k put in an LUK clutch and its back to normal.... what often finished off a clutch that easily had another 40k miles in it, was the pedal hits an upper stop and engages the clutch more and more, as it causes wear so it causes it to engage more, slip more = new clutch. This means the clutch pedal will move about one inch before there is any resistance in the pedal. I cut the weld off the pedal and used a punch to drive it out then installed a hiem joint onto the rod going to the master. :lmao: I'm just curious on what else could be making the pedal do this? Most brake and clutch pedals should have just a little bit of free play, usually about a centimeter, which is less than half an inch. Gotta say everything besides 1st and 2nd feels great. ... and everyone makes a mistake every now and then. Oops. vBulletin® v3.7.0, Copyright ©2000-2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. I scheduled an appointment to get it looked at and on the way to the shop (an hour long drive) it went out completely. Raise the front of the F-100, remove the jack stands and lower it to the ground. But the transmission and HVAC vents are not connected though. Hydraulics: When you push down the clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinder (CMC) uses hydraulic pressure to push out a rod on the slave cylinder. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1561248, http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1650417, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BldN2KzMCkY, General BMW and Automotive Discussion sponsored by Intercity Lines, Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing sponsored by Bimmerparts.com, Professional Motorsports sponsored by Bimmerworld, Suspension Tech and Handling sponsored by eBMWParts.com, Tire & Wheel Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack, Car Audio & Electronics sponsored by Bavsound, Car Detailing and Show & Shine Prep sponsored by Autogeek.net, General BMW Mechanical Help sponsored by RM European Auto Parts, 1 Series & 2 Series (E81, E82, E87, E88, F20, F22, F23), 3 series & 4 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E9x, F30, F32, F33, F36, F44), 5 Series (E28, E34, E39, E60, E61, F10, G30), 7 Series (E23, E32, E38, E65, E66, F01, F02), 2003+ X3, X4 (E83, F25, F26, F97, F98, G02), 2019+ Z4 (G29) / 2020+ Toyota Supra (A90/J29), BMW Parts For Sale sponsored by Bavarian Auto Recycling, BMW Parts Wanted sponsored by Bavarian Auto Recycling, Group Purchases & Supporting Vendor Specials presented by eBay, Georgia sponsored by Harrison Motorsports, If this is your first visit, be sure to Some vehicles have stiffer clutch pedals than others, depending on the amount of torque the transmission is designed to handle and if the vehicle comes with any type of clutch assist. After going here and there all day, I realized that my clutch pedal is way higher than the brake pedal. I purchased a used pedal and put a new rubber stop in but the pedal still sits to high. No joke. Be sure the clutch pedal doesn't come up too high before it engages the clutch. When I got the car it had an automatic in it and someone just pulled the clutch pedal out. The system was bled right last weekend when the clutch was put in also. With all the money spent I really just want to enjoy the car again. The clutch (stock) does not start to grab until the pedal is about 2/3 -3/4 up. The shop either didn't adjust the clutch at all, or adjusted it wrong and are just too lazy to take a couple of minutes to adjust it correctly Metal. Somebody is trying to persuade a friend that the clutch in her Volvo 440 is about to go because the pedal is higher than the brake or the gas pedal. Is this indicative of There is a metal nipple on the pedal that gets worn out and can add to your problem. Even forums with sections for newcomers! It's actually really stressing me out. When I tried to start from a stop in 1st metal shavings came out of the AC vents and then I couldn't get the car to move. This is amplified by the impossibility of adjusting this distance in the system itself, and it becomes necessary to resort to other tricks or to simply adapt to the point as it is. Now the clutch pedal is level with the brake pedal, and the bite & pedal feel totally normal We have got a clutch from Zman to fit in the new year too, so it should be excellent then Took me about 30 minutes after looking at the guide. Yes, I have adjusted clutch master cylinder rods to alter pedal height. Too little, and it's difficult to press them and get the brake and clutch systems to engage. Resistance is felt when the throwout bearing is pushed against the clutch pressure plate. Enough to make me go "oh ****", roll into a parking lot and then realise I couldn't get the car to move anymore. For most drivers, this is not comfortable. 8.4k miles on it. Compared to my wife's 2006 Cobalt with a knackered clutch, you barely need to raise the clutch pedal at all. A high clutch biting point My main problem here is that the biting point on the clutch is quite high, difficult to describe, but when i depress the pedal i can feel the clutch starting to bite only in the last couple of inches of travel, which doesn't make for a very confortable nor effective way of shifting. And yes the car needed a clutch, I just didn't put it in to try and fix the pedal. Yet, unfathomably, many of them suffer from clutch engagement high on the pedal travel. I know (checked Ron Stygar's PDFs) that the clutch is higher by design, but mine feels like excessive. Having a high clutch means that the biting point is further up in your clutch’s pedal travel when fully released. Clutch pedals are usually higher than brake. They are extremely tough to launch but you'll be able to drive anything if you can do this. I seem to remember having a Volvo myself, and the clutch on that was very high. check out the. Before the pedal was very high and the bite was too obviously. Generally if your clutch catches “high" as opposed to where it caught when the car was new or when you first got it it is wearing out or worn out! It wasn't a whole lot of them but it happened as I was trying to start in 1st and it coincided with when my clutch finally started to completely give out. Managed to roll into a gas station and get it towed to the shop. Shavings have nothing to do with it, but you brought it up, peeps called "BS". If you don' have an actual clutch issue then your problem will be down at the pedal. I don't think that this adjustment would really affect the wear on the clutch, as it seems to me that it's just the pivot angle that's being changed, not the actual engagement point. On the other hand, having a low clutch means that the biting point is located further down of a fully depressed clutch pedal. Make note of how much you need to depress the clutch pedal before it disengages the clutch and allows you to put the car into gear without grinding any of the gears. We go over how clutch pedal adjustment affects the clutch hydraulic system. This is the hydraulic portion of the system. Also find a bit of space…. The previous clutch engaged much lower. Is this the design, or is something dreadful about to happen? Maybe they just forgot to adjust it and thought they did? If you aren’t comfortable with the point at which your clutch engages, you can easily adjust it … I agree with that that'd be a waste of time. Most late-model street vehicles use an internal hydraulic clutch release bearing, sometimes called a concentric slave cylinder (CSC). I have a picture of the clutch the tech sent me if I can figure out how to upload pictures on mobile. You don't mention a car, but my 2004 STI has a high engagement point, nearly at the top. My foot is almost completely off the clutch before the car moves (in 1st from a stop). My clutch pedal is really high in my car. Have you personally adjusted your clutch? Re: Accelerator pedal too high for small feet In a previous car I GLUED a strip of cardboard to the underside (right hand side) of the rubber mat (the bit where your right heel sits) On this car I have used a staple gun from work and STAPLED a strip of carpet with non-slip underlay to the underside of the (non-slip) mat. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. I've barely asked any questions at all! Normally a clutch will start to slip when it is worn out! Too much free play and the pedals feel loose or spongy. A hydraulic clutch is a self-adjusting clutch. Many motorcyclists consider the biting point on a hydraulic clutch system too high. But you WILL have increased pedal effort to go with it. I have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is. Easy test is to drive up a hill in high gear (4/5th) if revs rise but engine speed doesn’t clutch gone. It's probably 1-2" down (90% up in the travel).